The Royal Pita Maha: The Valley of the Gods
Text by Melani Semuel
Ubud comes from the Sanskrit word “obat,” meaning “medicine” or “to heal.” The Royal Pita Maha is gorgeously situated in the picturesque area of Kedewatan in Ubud, amidst a landscape of sweeping rice terraces, river gorges and tropical woodlands. It is little wonder then that a stay at one of its majestic villas overlooking the Ayung River valley can heal any soul famished for the benevolent sustenance of nature.
It is impossible not to feel your emotions swell at the Royal Pita Maha. From the moment we drove up the winding driveway, lined with lush vegetation and Balinese statues, and arrived at the small lobby entrance, wonder had already captivated our imaginations. The lobby entranceway is surprisingly small for a resort as expansive as the Royal Pita Maha – particularly for those used to the over-the-top, maximalist entrances at other resorts – but we later realised that this was perhaps an intentional effort to add to the dramatic effect of the sweeping views waiting for us inside the lobby.
This was where our awe-inspiring experience at the Royal Pita Maha began. Walking past the gateway, we entered the cavernous lobby, flush with an amazing array of gorgeous carvings and statues lining the entire perimeter. Marble flooring contrasts with the lofty thatched roof. Dotted around the lobby are dark wooden pillars decorated with elaborate carvings, some of which were so elaborate and complex that they spanned at least four meters and were composed of multilayered three-dimensional solid blocks. You simply have to see them for yourself to understand their heroic magnitude. Just know that it doesn't get any more Balinese than this. Which makes sense, considering that the Royal Pita Maha is owned by Ubud’s royal family and was designed by the Prince of Ubud himself.
It is a little-known fact that the gorgeous Royal Pita Maha was built without a blueprint. Every building in the resort was built based on the permission and guidance of the gods. Every building and room in the resort is firmly grounded in Balinese culture, particularly the idea of the Tri Hita Karana, or unity between god, man and nature. The result is a captivating resort of refined Balinese villas that descend down the breathtaking valley to the Ayung River below.
The lobby slopes downwards to connect to a narrow alleyway where the guest elevators and the two-storey Terrace Restaurant are located in one fluid line-of-sight continuity. The Terrace Restaurant is really a half-lobby, half-restaurant that is split into two levels, with the upper restaurant accessed from the lobby.
We followed the staff to the restaurant to complete our check-in. As we approached the restaurant, we could see some greenery just peeking out. It was hard to tell exactly what we were looking at since the restaurant’s gateway is so small, but it was obvious that the restaurant features some sort of open-air façade. Again, the smart play on small-to-large architecture works very well here, because, without warning, the small gateway opens up to a heart-stopping 360-degree view of the Ayung River valley. The lobby and the restaurant sit atop the hill, and the rest of the resort, including the villas, are terraced all the way down to the Ayung River. From the restaurant, we had a majestic bird-eye’s view of the entire valley.
We really could have spent an entire day there, marvelling at the incomprehensible beauty of it all, but the staff was ready to guide us to our villa. We took the elevator one floor down, where the lower Terrace Restaurant sits. The elevator only goes down three floors from the main lobby. After that, guests access their villas by walking a short distance to another elevator, which will take them to the bottom of the resort, where the holy spring water pool, lagoon pool, yoga bale, fish pond and Ayung River are situated at. Don’t worry – the walk down is far but so scenic that you might want to opt for the leisurely walk every time, like we did.
We were equally impressed with our villa. The high thatched roof conveyed an air of spaciousness, and the wood floors radiated warmth. A large, heart-shaped bathtub sat near a separate shower enclosure, and the generously sized living room was perfect for entertaining guests or just lounging around. But the best part of it all was the king-size canopy beds with dramatic, sweeping views of the valley! With floor-to-ceiling glass windows, waking up in the generously soft embrace of a Royal Pita Maha bed feels very much like waking up in the warm embrace of nature. The lush private garden and free-form pool outside offered an air of exclusive privacy, with the other villas hidden from sight. We could just barely see the main building (sitting higher up the hilltop from the villa) from one corner of the garden.
It was time for us to explore the extensive grounds of the resort. We decided to take a plunge in the holy spring water pool and the 73-metre Ayung River front lagoon pool. The holy spring water pool is exactly that – a pool that is fed by spring water. You will emerge from these magical waters feeling refreshed and reinvigorated. The water, with no added chemicals or chlorine, just feels so wonderfully different from your average resort pool. We descended further down to the lagoon pool, and in the process, we passed by a wedding ceremony set right against the magnificent backdrop of the Ayung River. The bride was gorgeous with her white dress contrasting with the lush green of the river valley – and I made a silent vow that this would be the venue for my own wedding.
Night had fallen, and we made our way back up to the villa. The Royal Pita Maha truly comes alive after the sun sets. This is when the property is at its most charming and magical. Soft garden lamps gently illuminate the winding stone staircases leading down to the river, making it the perfect setting for a romantic evening walk. The sound of trickling water can be heard all over the property, soothing my soul as I searched for the true meaning of existence. Dramatic spotlights shine on the intricate, three-dimensional stone carvings, teasing the imagination and giving the impression that the battles between good and evil depicted on the wall carvings are taking place right then and there.
It is difficult to find the words to describe just how stunningly beautiful the Royal Pita Maha really is. On our last night, we stood over the pool in the garden, watching the now dark valley, but it didn’t matter – the Royal Pita Maha gives off a strong positive energy that can be felt even in total darkness. Suddenly, we saw a tiny, glowing green light, bright against the dark night sky. One, and then two. Mesmerised, we watched the two lights hovering together in slow motion, seemingly prancing and dancing, teasing each other. A closer look revealed the lights to be fireflies. We both shivered. I mean, where can you find fireflies anymore?
The Royal Pita Maha is both a humbling and an eye-opening experience all at once. This organically designed property will compel you to reflect on the true purpose of life and why we are here in the first place. We left reinvigorated, renewed and refreshed, ready to tackle whatever challenges came our way.
The Royal Pita Maha
Desa Kedewatan
Bali – Indonesia
Phone. +62 361 98 0022
www.royalpitamaha-bali.com
.